Be sure the magnets are secure.

Connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground. Turn the Ignition switch on and off several times. If at any time, you se DC voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the battery Harness or the Ignition switch. NOTE: At no time should you see battery voltage on any kill wires.

If found, replace the Stator, Burnt marks of discolored areas on the battery charge windings indicates a possible problem with the rectifier.

Disconnect the kill Wire AT the Pack. Check for bare or broken wires on the Unit, Stator and timer base. Measure DVA voltage of the Stator with everything connected. Readings should be approximately 150 volts or more. On Standard CD types, check DVA voltage on the timer base white Wire. Voltage should be approximately 150 volts or more (Quick Start units usually have the white Wire tied to ground inside the pack). If the reading is good on the Stator but low on the white Wire, the timer base is usually bad. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

Disconnect the timer base. Using the Fluke meter, set to ohms scale, and one of the piercing probes, connect the red lead from the meter to the white Wire in the Amphenol connector from the timer base. Use the black lead from the meter and check to all of the pastel colored wires in both connectors from the timer base. all of the readings should be fairly even, normally between 1 and 2 meg ohms measured with a Fluke meter. with the red lead still connected to the white Wire, connect the black meter lead to the black/white Wire in the opposite connector from the timer base. You should read approximately 220 ohms. If one or more cylinders are out of line, (I.E. all the rest are reading 1.2 -1.8 meg ohms and one reads 0.898 or 2.2 meg ohms) the timer base is usually bad.

DVA check the Stator. Each set of brown wires should read at least 150V (950-1050 ohms) and 12 volts between the two orange wires from the power coil (50 ohms on the gray sleeved Stator and 97 ohms on the black sleeved Stator). Note: These units require special spark plugs and the GRAY spark plug wires. If the pack only fires when you remove the plug connector containing the kill wires, use a jumper Wire to connect the kill wires in the pack. If the pack still fires, there is a problem in the Harness, safety circuit or Ignition switch. A no fire situation with the jumper in place indicates a bad pack.

If the engine misses on one cylinder with the white/black temperature Wire hooked up and does not with it unhooked, this is usually the timer base causing the problem.

If one or more cylinders will not fire with the spark plug installed], check the timer base resistance between sensor leads: PP2, from white/black to black/white; PP3 from black/white to all all whit/blacks; PP4 1-3 and 2-4, readings should be 10-20 ohms for all sensor coils. (some of the older units with the metal cased CD's read 8-14 ohms). Regapping may solve the problem. CDI Gap Gauge 553-9702 is recommended for PP3 and PP4. To regap, remove the epoxy covering and loosen the small nuts on the center bolts going thru the heat shield. Loosen the anchor screws holding down the sensors. Slide the sensor in toward the Crankshaft until it touches the gap gauge. (553-9702) or the metal stop at the bottom of the sensor. Paint the face of the sensor or the Trigger magnet on the flywheel, with a contact detector, and reinstall the flywheel. Crank the engine over several times and remove the flywheel, checking to see if the Trigger magnet is striking the sensor face.

Remove the black/yellow kill Wire from the rubber connector to see if the pin is broken. Check the kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper Wire connected to the black/yellow Wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the engine, the kill circuit in the Harness or the boat is bad, or the Ignition switch is bad.

Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test the timer base.

DVA check Stator voltage to both sides. The readings should be fairly equal. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack on the bank. If unequal, swap banks with the Stator leads and see if the problem moves with the Stator leads. If it does, replace the Stator. Disconnect one of the black/yellow kill wires, AT the Pack. If the problem goes away, replace the pack that was running smooth as is probably has a bAdBlocking diode.

Can be caused by low voltage from the Stator of a bad timer base. DVA test Stator and timer base. Disconnect the rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears, replace the rectifier. If it doesn't replace the pack.

Especially check inside the rubber Amphenol plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them.